Nearest Function Mapbasic

Tokyo Subway Map: Basic Block Piecing and Block 1 of 25

The "X"s on the pattern indicate the placement of the colored solid fabrics.  If you follow my prints vs. solids layout, including the proportion of prints to solids I listed in the cutting instructions, you'll end up with prints and solids evenly distributed across the quilt top and one solid square of each different-colored line in each block through which that line passes.  I noticed, as I was cutting my fabrics, that some of my sets of squares included a rather wide range of value (lightness or darkness).  Because the piecing layout is all about lines running around the quilt, I'm going to pay attention to that when I'm placing the squares in each block.  If you look closely at the way I arranged my gray squares above, you can see that the ones on the left side are lighter.  I intentionally put the light squares together and the dark squares together.  My hope is that, if I continue to do this in each block, it will give a look of flow and movement in the finished quilt.  Once you're happy with your arrangement, stack each row of squares, from left to right, with the top square in each stack being the one that was formerly on the far left and the bottom square being the one that was formerly on the far right.  Keep the stacks of squares in the same arrangement of 8 rows, so that you can easily identify their proper order. As long as you're carefully lining up the squares as you go, there should be no need for pins or to stop and press between seams.  Just focus on keeping the squares lined up and your seam allowance consistent.  If you have a seam guide (like the one I'm using in the above photo) or a 1/4 inch foot, you may find it useful here.  Low-tech solutions like putting a strip of blue painter's tape on your machine can also be helpful.

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